… for the tuk tuk driver who tried to rip us off by roping us into going to some shady warehouse “just to look”, forcing us to jump out of the vehicle and spend an hour walking back to where we were before.

evil son of a bitch better hope we never cross paths again, because i will not be held responsible for my actions!

to mum. i miss you lots and love you even more. thinking of you today…

jen

as we drove into bangkok yesterday evening, there was a distinctly noticable warm glow over the city which i attributed to the setting sun dropping down the horizon. but in truth, bangkok needs no sunset – it emanates a golden haze all its own – a gentle shabby elegance that shimmers. somehow the usual din and dirt and bustle combine with the reflection of glistening wats, the buzz of the heady neon flowers, the curling grace of the writing and architecture, to give off a strange kind of comfort. shrine incense and roasting bananas perfume the street air, and the puttering tuk tuks and sizzling woks provide the soundtrack. in whiling away a day lazily shopping and snacking, or drifting into night at a candlelight sidewalk bar with talk of beer and beaches, it’s easy to see how people can lose themselves here. it’s slow and sweaty, a sultry seduction.

it’s easy to understand because i lost myself recently – forgetting the days and the dates, and i am thoroughly ashamed to admit … i forgot j’s birthday. for two whole days. those who know me well, and know the importance i place on birthdays will find that hard to believe, but it’s true. i could defend myself by saying it was the day after our 30 hour train trip, and j had been ill, etc., but the plain fact is that there is no justification for such a grievous sin. i feel like the world’s biggest jerk, and probably will for a long time. but today, j finally got his b-day present: a big old tribal tattoo that he’s been wanting for a while. and i joined him to commemorate the trip – an elephant on the inside of my wrist. elephants never forget.