we’re back in the tropics… and it feels soooo good. the skin is slowly warming, pores opening, cells stretching towards the sunlight.

it’s delicious.

J: “so do you think they actually sell women’s clothing that fits in this country?”

me: “i’m sure they sell it… i just wish to god i knew why no one bothers to wear it.”

we’ve been in san jose less than 24 hours, and already i’m cranky.

at first i attributed it to sleep deprivation and extended travel. we’d spent 24 straight hours just getting to san jose, after an overnight bus from arequipa to lima, jumping in a taxi to the lima airport, and then a few hours via plane and bus to get into the city. the immigration woman was a bitch, we couldn’t even buy a guidebook until *after* we landed, and i was hot and sweaty and hadn’t really slept since we left arequipa. don’t let anyone ever tell you travelling is all glamour!

but this morning, well rested and fully caffeinated, i’ve put my finger on what the real problem is. the people of san jose are just rude. the few interactions i’ve even had so far, i’ve felt palpable hostility at being yet another gringa they have to deal with. they barely even bother trying to speak to me, and the guy at the bus station ticket window just pointed, printed my ticket and took my money without a single word. the immigration lady asked me if i spoke spanish, but when i couldn’t understand her slurry question about the flight, rather than trying to speak more clearly or simply, just rolled her eyes, stamped the passports and practically shoved our papers back at us. nice. the bus driver from the airport was speaking to j, who clearly didn’t understand what he was saying, but when i tried to get in on the conversation to clarify what was going on, ignored me and kept talking to jonno.

it’s made me angry and defensive and irritable. i know my spanish may not be perfect, but i can usually make myself understood and understand others. but it seems no one wants to make the effort. if they don’t like dealing with tourists… well, then tough shit. all i can say is they’re happy enough to take our money. if they’re sick of gringos, fine, don’t let us into the country. but it’s not just gringos i see lining up at the “kfc” and “pizza hut”. but i’ve never been treated so rudely as a visitor since we began this trip, and i think that’s saying a lot. if we stay here much longer, someone’s going to get a mangled earful of “mierdas”, “hijo de perros”, and “chingates”.

i’m tired of it and i just want to escape to the beach… luckily that’s the plan for tomorrow.